It must be summer as the papers are all over surfing right now (see Surfer braves boiling waves); UK newspaper The Mirror published a story on 'OAPs living Outrageously' earlier this month - including 62 year old Gwynedd Haslock, of Truro, Cornwall, who's been surfing for 40 years. She told the tabloid:
"Growing up in Truro, I started surfing in Newquay as a teenager and was soon addicted to the exhilarating experience of riding a wave.
"Back then we had short, stubby, wooden boards so you'd paddle along on your front.
"But in 1966, huge 10ft boards came into fashion and it was so exciting. I started to surf standing up and never grew out of it."
"Although I once had my daredevil days tackling massive waves, I now stick to nothing bigger than about three foot."Years ago, I got dumped by a horrific wave. It was quite big and heavy and I got caught under it. It rolled me over and over and I didn't know which way was up.
"When I was younger and fitter I'd take risks, but now I know my limitations and stay within them.
"I really don't know if I'll still be surfing at 80. I live for today as you never know what is around the corner. While I'm able, I'll carry on.
"If people comment that I'm too old to surf then I really don't care. I do what I want to do. It's freedom, really. Surfing takes you away from the daily grind."
Who cares about wrinkles when there's waves to catch, and those retirement days to fill... love it!
[via: Mirror.co.uk]
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