Léa Brassy is a real adventurer: based in Biarritz, France for most of the year, she's a true free surfer, travelling the globe to hunt for the next perfect wave, new adventure, incredible memories, stunning landscapes and new horizons.
Which is why this usually-warm wave rider, sent herself to the arctic circle - to spend two bone-chilling months living in a van on the Lofoten Islands, Norway. Firstly, limbing up sheer rock faces, and then donning thick neoprene, hoods and gloves to surf freezing swells off the scandinavian sea.
An incredibly inspiring trip, where Léa overcame physical challenges to embrace her passion for wave riding while exploring nature at her most harsh - from the ocean to the mountain - you can read the Billabong team rider's detailed account of the adventure after the jump...
"This is a true story which happened not a long time ago, in northern Norway, above the Arctic Circle. It's late February and two keen surfers are gonna spend two month in their tiny van, searching for waves to ride and mountains to climb. I am one of them and I will tell you what we found and what I felt discovering the white world...
"Copenhagen airport, the message says "I'm gonna be (very) late". Vincent is waiting for me but he doesn't mind, time is no longer an enemy, we've got plenty. The van I drive from France all the way to the Great North is full of toys: surfboards, crampons, ice axes, wetsuits, tent... direction the Lofoten Islands, our first stop.
"Proudly raising above the ocean, the white mountains of the Lofoten seam to have begun a long walk through the water. Blue and white dominate the scenery, snow is everywhere where water isn't, giving a deep feeling of virginity. In that infinity of fjords, a little bay named Unstad has been discovered about ten years ago by an American.
"As it's very high in the latitudes, I'm very surprised to meet some keen surfers who brave the winter for a ride. Viking blood. The water is light green and all around is just white. Waves aren't big but nice and glassy, enough to make us feeling this is the right place to be. Surfing above the Arctic Circle makes sense, it's something special in a surfer's life.
"Wearing crampons and using ice axes isn't quite as easy as it appears. My first experience occurs in Unstad while we're waiting for the swell to show up. A small river in summer makes a wide ice fall in winter and that's our playground. We look for them all the time along the roads and on faces of mountains. We decide to head up north, to Hammerfest, nearly at the North Cape of Norway. We're welcomed by a couple of Norwegian friends who introduce us to the local activities and food. Lots of snow scooter and mainly cod fish.
"The weather remains bad our entire stay, there is more and more snow so we decide to move on to another plan. We reach the isolated Ingoya island, west of the North Cape, where 24 inhabitants live out of fishing. On his fishing experience a few weeks earlier, Vincent had spotted a right hander slab. We surfed it, quite scary, the lip was doubling up and the water was marine blue, giving the session a stressing atmosphere. Surfing at 71 degree north.
"The old rock band Morphine was our addiction on the road but we have to deal without it since the usb stick desapeared. Tom Waits is now playing non stop. Days are still quite short but I can see they get a little longer every day. In a month time, in April, they will reach 20 hours and in June, there will be no night! March and April are the good months to do the trip, snow and ice are excellent and waves are the most consistent of the year. Well, sleeping in the van remains being a mission, it's minus ten degrees!
"On the way to the well known Lygen Alps, we spot a huge conic ice fall. I take a look in the binoculars to make sure it's ice. Our first trip is decided and the next morning we're brassing snow at waist high cause we've got no snowshoes neither skis! But coming up to the ice fall is worth the pain and I need some time to realise how amazing the place is. Overlooking the fjord, the massive curaçao blue ice fall is even bigger that expected. The ice is hard and the fall is steep, good practice for the beginner I am. We spend the next day climbing the monster. Impressed and full of very fresh air, after a long and cold night in the tent, it's time to go back to the van.
"The snow starts following down, making a thick layer of fresh powder all over the place. The Lyngen Alps are sharp mountains going from sea level up to 1500 meters high. It's pretty dangerous with all this snow and we have to wait. During that time, we drive to the Vesteralen, were the sun shines and go climbing our first couloir. At the top, 400 meters straight above the ocean, we spot an endless scenery of white peaks along the water. Northern lights show up as we make the camp and it's watching their slow dance that I fall asleep. Nothing can be compared to this magical happening.
"The Lygen Alps clear up and it's time for a more serious project. We go on a three days trip to climb a 1469 meters high mountain called Forholttind. No informations, no route, it's both exciting and stressful. But the reward is even bigger when we reach the summit. My eyes are wet to be able to come up here, I'm very proud of what we accomplished.
"Once back at the car, we're welcomed by some locals for a warm meal. How can things match that well? We talk about our trip and the old couple look at us with shinning eyes and their message do not need any words. Tired of being cold for the past month or so, we ask to stay with a local family that we met the first time. For a few days we spend time playing with the kids and sharing the family life, the Norwegian lifestyle is definitely awesome.
"Beginning of April, the swell forecasts are good and it's time for us to switch in a surfing mode. The mess of ice axes and ropes becomes a mess of surfboards and wetsuits. The sun is shinning in Unstad and a 4 to 5 foot swell sticks around for about a week. The water is still only 4 degrees but the weather is warmer and it's a bit easier. Waves are very good, the right hander point break is long, hollow and fast and there is only the two of us. Slowly the locals show up and we get to know this friendly community of surfers. In the water, screams can be heard when someone takes off on a good wave and there is lots of excitements when the set comes.
"You can only stay two hours, after what you get cold. But twice a day we put on the wet wetsuit to go back into the green water. The left hander is nothing flash but you can be told "When It works, it breaks from the garbage to the beach and I tell you, It's the best ride ever. Well, I've been surfing here for ten years and I've never seen it working myself.". Every spot has got its own legend!"
"I smile when I think about the "before Norway" and all the people who thought I was crazy to go there in winter in a van, and especially for surfing and mountaineering. I smile because that trip might have been one of my best travelling experience. I tried to tell you all little about it but there is so much more I could have told. But It could be long and there is nothing better than going by yourself and dare what everyone else doesn't. Just dare and make your own vision of the world."
Images: Léa Brassey via Billabong
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